Wendy and
I took a short break away from the cold of Lesotho in the latter part of
July. We left the snows of
Lesotho, to drive through the snows of South Africa, but finally reached the
Indian Ocean coast. At the coast
it is still winter, but the moderating effect of the Indian Ocean waters does
mean much warmer nights relative to Lesotho.
At one
place we stayed, we looked out over the ocean and along the coast. In the ‘near’ distance, up the coast,
was a promontory with a big rock at the end. Maybe a hiking goal we thought.
I was out
early the next morning on my own and thought in an hour or so I should reach
the point. Off I went to check it out, but after walking for an hour, and
seeming only half way there, I thought I better get back and try again later
with Wendy. The next day we set
out early with the tide going out.
It was an auspicious start with a whale surfacing just off the shore as
be started, beckoning us on with a wave of a flipper.
The
outgoing tide left the sand on the beach beautifully packed, and the walking
was easy under a clear blue sky.
We reached the one-hour point I had reached the day before in about the
same amount of time, and I was thinking, another hour to go and lots of time to
get back before the tide would be in.
The promontory however, seemed not to be getting any closer as we
continued on for the next hour.
At the
end of the second hour we had reached a rocky section of shore, where some
locals were harvesting oysters.
The first fellow was on the shore having a smoke and tending a small
fire, while it was a woman out wading in the water with a short iron bar,
searching for and chipping the oysters from the rocks. She methodically checked in, around,
and under the rocks, prying off the oysters she found with a deft stroke from her bar, and then placing them into
a sack tied to her waist. A bit
further along we saw a couple of other fellows, half heartedly it seemed,
poking around for oysters amongst the rocks. Much like what I so often see, I thought, the
woman doing the bulk of the work while the men have it easy.
By this
time we were beginning to consider a “turn-back” time. The promontory seemed not much closer,
but we figured we still had time.
The rocks were less easy to make good time on, but we soldiered on. At one point we thought, just another
15 minutes. But at the end of the
15 minutes we were just as far away it seemed. But we must be getting close. I thought of how hard it must be for those Mount Everest
climbers to turn back when the goal seems so close. We gave out selves a further 15 minutes, which we stretched
out to 20 and we arrived, three hours after out departure. Our goal, the rock at the end of the promontory
that seemed to get smaller at times, now rose above us, a small
hill.
We
clambered to the top and enjoyed a fine view. The view included, on a pretty little bay the other side of
the point, maybe a kilometer away, a parking lot. We could have driven.
As we rested at the top and enjoyed the view, and a quick lunch, we
considered continuing on to the parking lot in hopes of finding a taxi
back. But what if there were no
taxis? We settled for the beach.
Back we
headed. First over and through the
rocky sections. The tide had
turned, but high tide was still five hours away. Some ways on, we met the oyster gatherers, and I had to
retract my critical thoughts about the men. Two of them, each carrying on their shoulders a large sack
of oysters, maybe 40-50 pounds, led the way. They had come a long way already and they still a good part
of an hour trudge over rough ground to reach the promontory, and then the
distance to the parking lot. The
last fellow was carrying the woman’s iron bar, and having completed her task,
her now strolled along unencumbered.
As we
proceeded past the rocky section the incoming tide was disrupting the firmly
packed sand we had enjoyed on our walk out. The sand higher up the beach was too dry and soft and made
the going tough. The sand where
the surf had surged in was now too wet and also soft. As we continued the narrow strip of firm sand in between too
dry and too wet grew smaller and smaller.
Trying to pick a path between too dry and too wet gave me a whole new
appreciation for Goldilocks and her fixation on “just right”.
There was
no easy way out and on we trudged.
The warmth and the sun trying to keep out spirits up as our legs and
ankles complained more and more.
Our march was broken at one point when a school of dolphins swept by,
leaping in and out of the swell. I
got out our binoculars, and watched.
The binoculars enabled me to see the dolphins up close, even just below
the surface of the leading edge of the surging swells. To my amazement, in the leading edge of
a swell, I would frequently see three, four, and sometimes more dolphins, in a
row, facing down the swell. It was
if they were body surfing in the waves!
Leaping and surfing, the dolphins continued their way along the shore
line and were soon lost from view.
Back to our trudging we turned.
After we
had been trudging for nearly three hours we arrived at a place that it had
taken us an hour to walk out when the sand was firm. We still had at least an hour’s walk
ahead, and now the incoming tide caused me to think ahead to rock cliff bands
that reached down to the sea. If
the tide was in sufficiently to block our return, it would mean backtracking
and taking another, longer path, up and around, to get back to our
accommodation. We arrived at the
cliff bands some fifty minutes later and the incoming surf was surging up to
the base of the rock before briefly retreating. Timing the surge, I scrambled over the sand under the first band. Wendy followed, but not
before giving me a brief moment of anxiety, waiting where I feared she might get
wet. The second band, Wendy nimbly
darted through and around, while I took the more laborious route. I managed the ‘through’ part on the
sand, but then clambered up and over, rather than around, the final section of
rock.
The steep
climb back up to our accommodation lay only another ten minutes beyond the rock
bands, and soon we were making our way slowly up. It was with aching legs and ankles that we dragged out tired
bodies over the last metres to the top.
What had taken three hours out, had taken four hours back. What had been planned as a four-hour
day, had taken seven.
 |
Our goal,the small sand coloured rock, as viewed from our accommondation. |
Why
things along a coast sometimes seem closer I do not know. Consulting a map later that evening we
realized that the walk to the point had been over eleven kilometers, one
way. The taxi might have provided a quicker ride home, but we would have had no story to tell of our forced march back. :-)
~ Benno ~