Village Scenes

Last weekend we spent a couple of days taking in village life here in Lesotho. I have been wanting to travel out to Ha Tsokotsa and visit my friend Ntate Kuena again. But it is the rainy season and if it were to rain, a planned two day trip could become a few day trip. I have already bailed out of one planned trip because of the forecast. But this weekend Dylan was here with a colleague and we took the plunge. There had been rain, but the forecast was looking positive so we headed in.
The trip in reminded me why we wanted dry roads. Though it was sunny, the roads were still greasy from the previous night’s rain. We had one spot were I spun out and was in danger of sliding off the road. But that was only a couple kilometers from our destination and Ntate Kuena and his brother had walked out to meet us. So with them and Dylan pushing we made it through.

Doing the laundry.

The sun shone brightly when we arrived. However, some while later Ntate Kuena led us on a hike to a couple of small caves along a river. Before we reached them, clouds moved in and it began to rain. Dylan and I were able to tread a narrow path above the river to get to a tree for some shelter but the others got soaked. It was a good thing we had driven in early in the day as it rained off and on for much of the rest of the day, and the road would have been impassable without a 4x4.

The rain provided an opportunity to experience what one does in the village when it rains – not too much. We sat around in a dark and cramped hut. All we could do was visit a bit and wander out into the yard when the rains let up a bit. Our hosts move their cooking fire into one of the huts when it rains, and so still prepared an excellent meal for us. But the smoke in the hut they cook in was so thick I mostly avoided any visiting there.

When it rains, the smokey fire moves into the hut.

It cleared up in the late evening and we had a beautiful moonlit night. We had our tents along and our sleeping bags were cozy, mostly. Dylan was bemoaning why he only brought his light summer bag as he shivered through the cool night after the rain.

But the next day was glorious. Dylan and I were up before the sun and hiked a ridge overlooking the village. After the rain, the air was fresh and the sky clear. Add in the coolness of early morning, and hiking conditions don't get much better.

Once back down in the village are party of four makhooa (white people) remained the centre of attention for the village children. We are a novelty and four of us created quite an event, though they were also hoping for an apple or other treat. Dylan took the opportunity to engage the children in some games. He is an amazing young man. Language seems no barrier to him. He finds ways to engage with children despite not having a common language.

Dylan and the children playing games.

During the morning Ntate Kuena put on an apron and spent a couple hours repairing shoes. What we throw away in Canada he painstakingly repaired with a small awl/needle and waxed thread. Later in the morning, the warm sun had dried up the road enough that we could drive the 1.5 km to a small stream from which Ntate Kuena has been hauling sand, one rickety wheelbarrow load at a time. He is just beginning to start a new house for the extended family. The cement was hauled in some time ago when the roads were better, but the sand comes from the stream, one small wheelbarrow load at a time. Over the next ninety minutes we were able to haul three days worth of sand for him.

Village women bringing home firewood.

Then it was time for a final meal before departing. Wendy was the cook this time, and when it was time to enter the hut to get my plate of food I wondered what on earth she was cooking. It stank horribly. But it wasn’t her cooking. Ntate Kuena was stewing up some cow intestines that a neighbor had given him. As Wendy noted, we were just thankful he didn’t offer us any.

Then it was time for the drive back home. Four of us went out, but eight of us were heading back. Ntate Kuena's family had been together for the Easter weekend and the truck was a welcome alternative to a stop and go 'taxi' (van) ride back to town. It was off for the three hour, 80 km trip back to Maseru, with Wendy, Dylan, and Ntate Kuena’s brother, Paul, riding in the back. The roads had dried up under the sunny skies and the drive back to the city was a warm and pleasant ride.

Three generations, together for Easter.

But come June we will likely be back on the road again. Ntate Kuena’s father has indicated he will be inviting us to a family celebration in June. I am not looking forward to the long drive, but I am looking forward to another visit.

By the way, if you want to check out where we were and have access to Google Earth, try to locate 29*36’59.21”S / 27*52’58.53”E. These numbers are in the lower left area on Google Earth. If you can find these coordinates you will have found Ha Tsokotsa, Ntate Kuena’s village.

~ Benno ~

By the way, the pig fence is still standing strong, but Ntate Kuena had a difficult season. He lost all but one of his piglets to a tick borne fever. He says he will have the medication available next year and that he will fare better. Farmers everywhere are optimists aren’t they. ~B